The Skinhead subculture first took shape in late 1960s Britain, especially in working-class areas of London, Birmingham and the Midlands. It developed from a mix of British working-class youth culture and the influence of Jamaican rude boys, who had migrated to the UK bringing ska and reggae music with them. The name “Skinhead” refers to the closely shaved hairstyles that marked a clear break from the long-haired hippie trend of the time. This haircut was both practical and symbolic, representing toughness and solidarity.
From the beginning, Skinheads were often involved in conflicts with other youth groups. They clashed with hippies, whose free-spirited lifestyle and long hair were the opposite of the Skinheads’ no-nonsense attitude. There were also tensions with Mods, the previous major subculture, whose polished, tailored fashion contrasted sharply with the rougher Skinhead style. Later, the scene became fragmented, with some Skinheads embracing far-right politics, leading to violent confrontations with anti-racist Skinheads, punks and football hooligans. These divisions often created a complicated and misunderstood image of the subculture in the public eye.
Skinhead fashion is iconic and instantly recognisable. The most defining feature was the shaved or very closely cropped hair, symbolising unity and working-class pride. Footwear was dominated by Dr. Martens boots, known for their toughness and connection to the factory and street lifestyle. Other boot brands like Solovair were also popular. Clothing combined practicality with sharpness: straight-legged jeans or heavy trousers, typically rolled up at the cuff to show off the boots, were standard. Braces or suspenders worn over button-down shirts or polo shirts by brands like Ben Sherman and Fred Perry were staples. Outerwear included Harrington jackets, Crombie coats, parkas, and sometimes flight jackets, all offering a balance of style and function.
These clothes were more than fashion; they were a statement of identity and pride in working-class roots. The choice of brands like Ben Sherman and Fred Perry also connected Skinheads to earlier British youth culture, while the practical nature of the clothing reflected their working-class backgrounds.
Music was central to the Skinhead identity. Early Skinheads were passionate fans of Jamaican ska, rocksteady and reggae, especially roots reggae, which resonated with their urban experience and cultural mix. These genres were introduced by Caribbean immigrants and became the soundtrack of the subculture’s early years. As the movement progressed into the 1970s, punk rock and Oi! music emerged as dominant sounds, with bands like The Specials, The Selecter, Cock Sparrer and Sham 69 offering gritty, energetic anthems that reflected the working-class experience.
The club scene was an important gathering place for Skinheads, where music, style and identity were celebrated. Drug use was varied but typically less associated with psychedelic or heavy drug culture common in other subcultures, focusing more on alcohol and sometimes amphetamines, consistent with the working-class nightlife.
The Skinhead subculture has been widely portrayed in films, books and photography, often highlighting its complexities beyond the stereotypes. The 2006 film This Is England is perhaps the most famous, offering a nuanced look at the subculture’s origins, cultural tensions and political divides during the 1980s. Photographic works by Gavin Watson and Nick Knight have documented Skinhead fashion and culture with sensitivity and depth, capturing both the pride and the challenges faced by members of the scene. Literature and documentaries continue to explore the contradictions within Skinhead culture, including its multicultural roots and later political fragmentation.
The Skinhead subculture is often regarded as the foundation for the later football casual movement of the late 1970s and 1980s. Football casuals drew heavily on Skinhead style but adapted it to a changing cultural landscape. While Skinheads favoured Dr. Martens boots, casuals preferred designer trainers from brands like Adidas and Nike, reflecting the growing influence of sportswear and global brands.
Casuals kept the connection to working-class identity through clothing brands that Skinheads popularised, such as Fred Perry and Ben Sherman polos. They also embraced outerwear like Harrington jackets and bomber jackets but favoured newer brands like Stone Island, CP Company and Lacoste, placing more emphasis on brand prestige and subtle styling. This shift marked an evolution from the Skinheads’ rugged, utilitarian approach to a more fashion-conscious and polished look, while maintaining a sense of group identity and loyalty. The influence of Skinhead fashion on football casuals shows how subcultures evolve, borrow and reinvent themselves over time.